In the logistics of metal buildings, we often talk about “Scalability.” You might start with a simple need—keeping the rain off your sedan—but life evolves. You buy a boat, you need a workshop, or you simply get tired of the afternoon sun baking the side of your truck.
This is where the Boxed-Eave Metal Carport shines. Unlike the entry-level “Regular” style (which has rounded corners that make adding walls difficult), the Boxed-Eave style features an A-Frame design with squared-off eaves. From a supply chain perspective, this structure is a “Modular Chassis.” It is pre-engineered to accept add-ons.
As a Supply Chain Director, I oversee the fabrication of thousands of Side Panels, Gable Ends, and Garage Door Frame-Outs. I see customers transforming $2,000 carports into $6,000 enclosed garages for a fraction of the cost of new construction.
In this guide, we are going to break down the logic of upgrading. We will look at the specific components you can bolt onto your Boxed-Eave frame, analyze the wind load implications, and provide the data you need to order the right parts.
1. The Boxed-Eave Advantage: Why Upgrades Work
Before we order parts, you need to understand the geometry. The Boxed-Eave style uses Horizontal Roof Panels on an A-Frame truss.
- The Key Feature: It has a distinct “Eave” (overhang) and square legs.
- The Benefit: This square geometry allows you to screw flat metal sheets vertically onto the sides without bending or cutting them to fit a curve.
If you own a Boxed-Eave carport, you are already 50% of the way to a garage.
Table 1: Upgrade Potential by Roof Style
| Roof Style | Side Panel Compatibility | Gable End Compatibility | Door Installation | Supply Chain Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Regular (Rounded) | Poor. Requires bending panels at the top; looks unfinished. | Difficult. Round radius makes fitting gables hard. | Hard. No flat header to attach to. | Buy only if staying open. |
| Boxed-Eave (A-Frame) | Excellent. Panels fit flush under the eave trim. | Excellent. Standard triangles bolt right in. | Good. Square frame accepts door headers easily. | The Best Value Platform. |
| Vertical Roof | Excellent. Same as Boxed-Eave but stronger roof. | Excellent. | Best. Stronger frame for heavy doors. | Premium choice. |
2. Side Panels: The First Line of Defense
The most common upgrade request we get is: “The sun hits my car door in the afternoon. Can I add a wall?” Yes. In the industry, we sell side panels in 3-Foot Widths. You can choose to cover just the top half, or go all the way to the ground.
Configuration Options
- 3-Foot “Modesty” Panel: Covers the top 3 feet just under the roof. Stops sun glare and strengthens the frame.
- Half Wall: Covers the top half. popular for picnic shelters.
- Full Enclosure: Panels from roof to ground.
Table 2: Side Panel Logic & Cost (Per Side for 21′ Length)
| Coverage Level | Material Required | Wind Protection | Installation Difficulty | Est. Cost (Material) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| One Panel (3′ Drop) | 1 Sheet per 3′ section + J-Trim | Low (Sun shade only) | Easy (1 hour) | ~$300 – $400 |
| Two Panels (6′ Drop) | 2 Sheets per section + J-Trim | Medium (Blocks driving rain) | Easy | ~$600 – $800 |
| Full Wall (Fully Enclosed) | Full sheets + Base Rail Anchors | High (Total block) | Moderate (Need to level ground) | ~$900 – $1,200 |
Supply Chain Tip: If you fully enclose a side, you MUST install a bottom base rail anchored to the ground. Without it, the metal panels will flap in the wind like a sail and eventually tear off.
3. Gable Ends: Exploring the “Attic”
The “Gable” is the triangular space at the front and back of the roof, above the leg height. Leaving it open turns your carport into a wind tunnel. Closing it adds structural rigidity and aesthetic appeal.
On a Boxed-Eave carport, the gable is a separate frame piece that slides into the roof truss.
Table 3: Gable End Options
| Option | Aesthetics | Structural Benefit | Ventilation | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Open Gable | Industrial skeleton look. | Zero. | Maximum airflow. | Standard for basic carports. |
| Horizontal Gable | Matches roof lines. Clean look. | Moderate. Braces the roof trusses. | Reduced (Traps some heat). | Best Value Upgrade. |
| Vertical Gable | Premium residential look. | High. Stronger against wind pressure. | Low. | Best for matching house siding. |
| Extended Gable | Looks like a “brow” overhang. | High. Protects front of car from rain. | Moderate. | Great for “Porch” look. |
Director’s Note: Adding a gable is the single cheapest way to make a metal carport look like a “building” rather than a “shelter.” It also creates a great spot to mount a security light or camera.
4. Transitioning to a Garage: Adding Doors
This is the big leap. You want to turn your Boxed-Eave Carport into a fully enclosed workshop. To do this, you need to add “End Walls” and “Garage Doors.”
The Supply Chain Bottleneck: The Frame-Out. You cannot just screw a garage door track to sheet metal. You need a structural steel frame (Header and Jambs) to support the weight and torque of the door.
Table 4: Door Frame-Out Requirements
| Door Type | Rough Opening (RO) Needed | Structural Requirement | Side Clearance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Walk-in Door (36″x80″) | 38″ x 82″ | Square tubing frame-out. | Can fit on side or end walls. |
| Roll-Up Door (8’x8′) | 8′ x 8′ | Heavy-duty Header + Door Drum space. | Needs 12″ headroom above door. |
| Roll-Up Door (10’x10′) | 10′ x 10′ | 12-Gauge Header highly recommended. | Needs 12″-18″ headroom above. |
| Sectional (Overhead) | Custom | Ceiling tracks required. | Difficult. Trusses get in the way of tracks. |
Critical Warning: If you have a Boxed-Eave carport with standard 6-foot legs, you CANNOT install a garage door.
- A standard 7′ tall garage door requires at least an 8′ leg height to accommodate the roll-up drum.
- Solution: If your legs are too short, you can extend them (difficult) or settle for closing the back end only.
5. Windows and Trim: The Finishing Touches
If you enclose your carport, it will be pitch black inside. You need windows. However, cutting a hole in a metal wall weakens it.
- The Frame-Out: Just like doors, windows require a steel box frame welded into the wall structure.
- The Trim (J-Trim): This is non-negotiable. Cut steel is razor sharp. J-Trim covers the raw edges around windows and doors.
Table 5: Window & Trim Specifications
| Component | Purpose | Spec |
|---|---|---|
| Standard Window | Light & Ventilation | 30″ x 30″ Single Pane (Vertical Slide). |
| J-Trim | Safety & Waterproofing | Matches panel color. Goes around EVERY cut. |
| L-Trim | Corner Aesthetics | Covers the outside corners where walls meet. |
| Base Trim | Rust Prevention | Seals the gap between the wall panel and the ground. |
6. Structural Logistics: Wind Load & Anchoring
This is the part most DIYers ignore. When you add side panels to a carport, you are fundamentally changing its aerodynamics.
- Open Carport: Wind blows through it.
- Enclosed Carport: Wind blows against it.
You have turned a wing into a sail. The wind load on the anchors increases massively.
Table 6: Anchoring Upgrades for Enclosed Units
| Current Anchor | Status for OPEN Carport | Status for ENCLOSED Carport | Supply Chain Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rebar Pin (Dirt) | Acceptable (Temporary) | DANGEROUS | Must Upgrade. Walls will pull these out. |
| Asphalt Anchor | Good | Marginal | Add more anchors per side. |
| Mobile Home Auger | Excellent | Required | Install one every 10′ minimum. |
| Concrete Wedge | Excellent | Excellent | Ensure 1 anchor per leg. |
Director’s Rule: If you enclose more than 50% of your carport, you must upgrade to Mobile Home Augers (if on dirt) or check your concrete wedge anchors. The side pressure from a 50mph wind on a 20ft long wall is thousands of pounds.
7. DIY vs. Pro Install: The “Add-On” Reality
Can you install these add-ons yourself? Unlike building the main structure (which requires heavy lifting), installing panels is manageable for one person, though two is better.
Table 7: Installation Difficulty Matrix
| Upgrade Task | Skill Level (1-5) | Tools Needed | Time Est. (2-Car Unit) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adding a 3′ Side Panel | 1 (Easy) | Impact Driver, Level. | 2 Hours |
| Installing a Gable End | 2 (Moderate) | Ladder, Driver, Snips. | 3 Hours |
| Full Wall Enclosure | 3 (Moderate) | Metal Saw (to trim length), Driver. | 1 Day |
| Installing a Walk-in Door | 4 (Hard) | Angle Grinder (cut frame), Framing capability. | 4-6 Hours |
| Installing a Roll-Up Door | 5 (Expert) | Heavy lifting, Spring tensioning safety. | Hire a Pro. |
Supply Chain Logistics:
- Shipping: Side panels are 20+ feet long. They cannot ship UPS. They come on a freight semi-truck. You need a drop zone.
- Color Matching: If your carport is 5 years old, the paint has faded. New panels will be brighter. Consider a contrasting color (e.g., if roof is red, make walls wainscoting grey) to hide the mismatch.
Conclusion: The Modular Path to Protection
Upgrading a Boxed-Eave Carport is one of the smartest asset management moves you can make. You spread the capital expenditure over time.
- Year 1: Build the roof (Carport).
- Year 2: Add Gables and Side Panels (Sun protection).
- Year 3: Add End Walls and Doors (Secure Garage).
By the end, you have a fully enclosed, valuable building without the financial shock of a one-time purchase.
However, respect the logistics. Don’t just screw metal to metal. Use the proper J-Trim for safety. Install the Base Rails for stability. And for the love of engineering, upgrade your Anchors to handle the wind.
Ready to upgrade? Check the sticker on your carport leg to find the color code, measure your leg height, and contact our parts department. We have the panels in stock.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I add side panels to a “Regular” (Rounded) roof carport? A: You can, but we don’t recommend it. Because the roof curves down to the leg, there is no flat eave to tuck the panel under. You end up with a gap or you have to bend the panel, which looks messy and often leaks. The Boxed-Eave style is the only one designed for seamless side panel integration.
Q: My carport is 10 years old. Can I still buy matching panels? A: The rib pattern (usually 3/4″ high ribs on 9″ centers) is standard in the industry. However, the colors change slightly between paint batches and manufacturers. If exact matching is critical, send us a physical chip of your metal, but be prepared for slight shade differences due to UV fading on your old unit.
Q: Do I need a permit to enclose my carport? A: Yes, almost certainly. While a roof-only structure might fly under the radar in some rural areas, once you add walls, it counts as “Enclosed Square Footage.” This changes the fire code and tax assessment status. Always check with your local planning office before enclosing a structure.
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